What is the oldest grape variety still grown today? The answer is not entirely simple, as the history of the vine goes back several thousand years and many varieties have disappeared, evolved or changed names.
But among the old grape varieties still present in our vineyards, Savagnin Blanc holds a particularly interesting place.
Thanks to ancient DNA analysis, researchers have shown that a grape seed around 900 years old was genetically identical to modern Savagnin.
An exceptional discovery that directly links today's vineyards to the Middle Ages.
A grape several centuries old
Savagnin is today grown mainly in the Jura.
It is used notably to produce the famous vin jaune.
But its history is much older than this regional speciality.
Grape seeds found at various archaeological sites have been analysed to better understand the origins of modern grape varieties.
Among them, a seed discovered near Orléans and dated to the Middle Ages revealed a genetic profile identical to today's Savagnin Blanc.
This means a practically identical variety was already being grown nearly nine centuries ago.
Our pick for this article
Ancient DNA is changing our view of wine history
For a long time, the history of grape varieties relied mainly on archives, old texts and local traditions.
Genetics now makes it possible to go much further.
Researchers can extract DNA from ancient seeds and compare it with that of modern varieties.
These analyses reveal relationships between varieties and help reconstruct part of their genealogy.
They also show that some modern lineages are linked to vines grown for centuries.
How can a grape variety survive so long?
The vine has an essential particularity: it can be propagated by cuttings.
Instead of planting a seed, the grower takes part of an existing vine to create a new plant.
The new vine then has practically the same genetic heritage as the original plant.
This technique allows a variety to be preserved over a very long period.
When a variety gives good grapes or adapts particularly well to a terroir, later generations can keep propagating it.
Savagnin, Traminer and ancient families
Savagnin belongs to a very ancient family of grapes.
It is notably linked to Traminer and related to several European varieties.
Over the centuries, crosses between different vines gave rise to new varieties.
Today's vineyard can thus be compared to a huge family tree.
Some branches have disappeared, while others are still grown today.
Links with Roman times
Genetic analyses do not only concern the Middle Ages.
Grape seeds from the Roman period have also been studied.
Some show links with modern grape families such as Pinot Noir, Syrah or Mondeuse Blanche.
This does not necessarily mean the Romans grew exactly these varieties in their current form.
But it shows that some genetic lineages are extremely old.
The Middle Ages, a key period for the vine
In the Middle Ages, viticulture expanded strongly across Europe.
Monasteries, abbeys and lordly estates owned many vineyards.
Growers observed the plants and kept those best suited to the soil, climate and terroir.
Gradually, certain varieties became strongly associated with particular regions.
Pinot Noir took hold in Burgundy.
Syrah became emblematic of the Rhône Valley.
And Savagnin found a lasting home in the Jura.
Why is Savagnin associated with the Jura?
Savagnin is particularly well suited to the marl soils of the Jura vineyard.
It has high natural acidity and produces wines capable of long ageing.
These characteristics are essential for making vin jaune.
After several years of ageing under a veil of yeast, Savagnin develops very particular aromas of walnut, dried fruit, spice and sometimes curry.
This unique style is central to the Jura's identity.
Is it really the oldest grape variety in the world?
Caution is needed.
The domestication of the vine goes back several millennia.
Georgia and the Caucasus are among the regions where some of the oldest traces of winemaking have been found.
Varieties such as Rkatsiteli are often cited among the historic varieties still grown.
But it is hard to prove that a current variety is exactly the same as one grown several thousand years ago.
Savagnin therefore has an important advantage: direct genetic proof of continuity over around 900 years.
Phylloxera could have changed everything
In the 19th century, phylloxera destroyed much of Europe's vineyards.
To save the traditional varieties, growers began grafting European vines onto resistant American rootstocks.
This technique preserved the genetic heritage of Savagnin, Pinot Noir, Syrah and many other varieties.
Grafting thus became essential to the conservation of old grape varieties.
Why preserve old grape varieties?
Many varieties have disappeared over time.
Some were unproductive, difficult to grow or susceptible to disease.
Today, old varieties are once again attracting researchers and growers.
They represent an important reserve of genetic diversity.
In the face of climate change, some forgotten varieties may also show better resistance to heat or drought.
Preserving old varieties therefore protects both the history and the future of the vineyard.
Savagnin, a living heritage
Savagnin Blanc may not officially be the oldest grape variety in the world.
But its history has one of the most fascinating scientific proofs.
A seed grown in the Middle Ages has the same genetic profile as a vine still present today.
This continuity reminds us that grape varieties are much more than simple types of grape.
They represent centuries of selection, propagation, grafting and transmission.
Savagnin has thus become a true living heritage, directly linking today's vineyards to those grown nearly 900 years ago.
